Full Bust Adjustments (FBA)

Craftsy: Full Bust Adjustment for Any Pattern with Jenny Rushmore

  • The dart point should be between 1.5-2″ away from the apex of a larger bust. This is different than the 1″ I’ve seen recommended in other pattern fitting resources and I think it will be a good change to try.
  • For larger busts, try ironing the bust dart upward instead of downward as typically recommended. Full busts are typically larger on the bottom. Ironing the dart towards the top helps fill in any hollow spot.
  • When stitching darts, shorten the stitch length to about 1.5 as you approach the dart point.

Seam Finishes

Craftsy: Decorative Seams: Techniques and Finished with Katrina Walker

  • The thicker the fabric, the farther away from the seam edge your topstitching should be.
  • There are specific needles for metallic thread.
  • Topstitching should be on the side to which the seam allowance has been pressed. This helps control the seam allowance inside the garment.
  • Topstitch needles are designed to handle the heavier threads.
  • Single topstitching is on one side of the seam.
  • Double topstitching is a line of stitching on each side of the seam.
  • Flat felled seams are great for silk.
  • Bobbin stitching line can look different than the stitching from the top of the machine.
  • The quick flat-felled seam is the shiz; however, not as accurate as standard technique.
  • For sheer fabrics, no need to trim to make flat-felled seam. You can fold both fabrics together. Trimmed allowances may show through.